st james The background             Armenians   have   been   living   in   Jerusalem   for   over   2.000   years,   even before   Armenia   proclaimed   Christianity   as   its   state   religion   in   3O1   AD, whenpilgrims   began   trekking   to   the   Holy   Land   on   a   spiritual   journey   that would   rejuvenate   their   faith   and   reinforce   their   commitment   to   the   new religion of peace and love, preached by Jesus of Nazareth.            The Armenians   of   Jerusalem   are   the   direct   descendants   of   those   pious pilgrims   who   braved   all   sorts   of   dangers,   endured   all   kinds   of   hardships, in their determination to walk in the footsteps of the Christ.             A   large   number   of   the   Armenian   pilgrims   chose   to   remain   here. Jerusalem   had   become   their   new   home.   They   built   houses,   churches arid   convents,   some   no   longer   standing,   like   the   one   at   the   Musrara Quarter,   a   stone's   throw   from   the   15th   Century   walls   of   the   Old   City, where   in   1991   archaeologists   uncovered   an   incomparable   mosaic,   laid down by an unknown Armenian priest, Eustacius, in the 7th Century. The Convent             The   Armenian   Convent   of   St   James   became,   in   time,   the   largest single   compound   that   housed   Armenian   pilgrims,   and   represented   the demographic and spiritual core of the newly-established colony.             As   you   tread   the   cobble   stoned   alleys   of   the   Convent,   you   are   taken back   more   than   a   thousand   years   into   the   distant,   idyllic   past   of   our forefathers    who    laid    down    the    foundation    stone    of    our    present existence, for all generations to come.             The   Convent   itself   occupies   the   southwestern   corner   of   the   Old   City and   is   situated   on   the   site   of   the   encampment   of   the   Xth   Legion   of   Rome which was to storm the Jewish Zealot stronghold at Masada.             Together   with   its   adjoining   outcrop,   the   Armenian   Quarter,   which skirts   the   northern   edge   of   the   Convent,   the   Armenian   compound   is home   for   about   2,000   to   3,000   Armenians.   Another   2,000   are   scattered in   various   parts   of   the   Holy   Land,   mainly   in   Bethlehem,   Haifa,   Haifa, Ramleh    and    Ramallah,    where    visible    Armenian    communities    have evolved   around   the   periphery   of   their   ubiquitous   nucleus,   a   church   or convent. The Armenians of Jerusalem             At   its   peak,   the   Armenian   presence   in   Jerusalem,   where   they   have been   most   densely   concentrated,   num-bered   25,000.   But   the   havocs caused   by   the   discom-bobulations   of   half   a   century   of   bloodshed   and   the perennial    political    and    economic    instability    in    the    region,    have decimated   the   colony.   Most   of   its   former   members   are   now   ensconced   in the   more   placid,   greener   pastures   of   the   free   world:   the   USA,   Canada, Australia,    and    parts    of    Europe.    You    can    even    come    across    former Jerusalemites in such far-flung places as Calcutta or Johannesburg.             Nevertheless, Armenians   have   continued   to   be   a   dynamic   presence   in Jerusalem. The   numerical   factor   is   irrelevant. Armenians   are   in   a   unique situation    in    Jerusalem.    Their    Patriarchate    enjoys    a    semi-diplomatic status.   It   is   one   of   the   three   major   guardians   of   the   Christian   Holy Places    in    the    Holy    Land.    (The    other    two    are    the    Greek    Orthodox Patriarchate   and   the   Franciscan   Custodia).   Among   these   sites   are   the Church    of    the    Holy    Sepulcher    in    the    Old    City,    the    church    of    the Ascension   on   the   Mount   of   Olives,   the   Tomb   of   St   Mary   in   the   Valley   of Gethsemane, and the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem. The Entrance             When   you   first   enter   through   the   huge   iron   gate   of   the   Convent,   you come   face   to   face   with   an   ancient   marble   water   fountain,   which   was placed    there    centuries    ago    to    provide    a    cool,    refreshing    drink    for pilgrims,   in   compliance   with   an   ancient   Middle   Eastern   custom.   The introduction    of    running    water    to    the    homes    of    Jerusalem    residents sometime during the British Mandate, made the fountain redundant.             Behind   and   above   the   fountain,   a   marble   plaque   embedded   in   the wall   and   engraved   in   flowing   Arabic   script,   proclaims   the   privileged status   of   the   Armenian   Patriarchate,   and   calls   down   horrendous   curses on   the   heads   of   those   who   would   violate   these   privileges,   granted   by   the Mameluke Sultan Chaqmaq. The Cathedral of St James            A   few   paces   away,   to   your   left,   is   another   ancient   iron   gate   that   leads to   the   vestibule   of   the   Cathedral   of   St   James,   the   jewel   of   the Armenian Patriarchate.   A   magnificent   edifice   that   ranks   as   one   of   the   most   awe- inspiring    in    all    of    the    Middle    East,    the    Cathedral    is    bedecked    with centuries-old   "gantegh"s   (oil   lamps),   dangling   from   the   soaring   vault, and   tallow   candies   dotting   the   three   altars. The   oil   lamps   are   still   in   use today,   lovingly   tended   by   altar   boys   who   replenish   them   with   pure   olive oil   at   regular   intervals.   The   candles,   made   by   the   Patriarchate's   own candle-maker,   try   vainly   to   dispel   the   elemental   darkness   that   pervades the   church   and   that   impart   mystical   significance   to   Armenian   church rites.             The   Cathedral,   which   has   been   built   on   the   site   of   the   tombs   St James   the   Lord's   brother   and   St   James   the   Lesser,   has   in   the   past      also served   as   a   bomb   shelter.   During   the   1948   Arab-Israeli   war,   the   only sanctuary   from   the   daily   bombardment   of   the   city   that Armenians   could find   was   within   the   solid,   reassuring   confines   of   their   Cathedral,   with   its one-meter   thick   walls.   During   one   particularly      memorable   night,   over 1,000   shells   of   all   kinds,   including   the   dreaded   mortar,   landed   on   and around   the   Cathedral   -   but   no   single   casualty   did   they   claim.   Many believers   would   later   swear   that   they   had   seen   a   mysterious   figure, dressed   in   white,   standing   vigil   on   the   roof   of   the   Cathedral,   and   with his   hands   warding   off   the   shower   of   missiles.   It   was   none   other   than   St James, believers assert. Tombs of the Patriarchs            At   the   entrance   to   the   Cathedral,   a   large   plaque   marks   the   site   of   the grave    of    Jerusalem's    94th   Armenian    Patriarch,    the    late       Archbishop Guregh   Israelian.   One   of   the   city's   most   popular   and   charismatic   men   of the   cloth,   Israelian   died   in   1949   of   a   broken   heart,   after   witnessing   the intolerable   sufferings   of   his   war-ravaged   flock,   caught   in   the   crossfire between   the   Arab   and   Jewish   armies.   More   than   once,   he   would   cradle in   his   own   arms   the   shrapnel-shredded   body   of   an   Armenian   who   had been the latest casualty in the unrelenting war.            Another   lonely,   unpretentious   grave   sits   forlornly   under   an   archway   a few   paces   away,   at   the   other   end   of   the   vestibule.   This   one   is   the   last resting    place    of    Jerusalem's    first    Armenian    Patriarch,    Abraham,    a contemporary of Saladin. No Entry             As   you   come   out   of   the   Cathedral,   you   will   notice   a   flight   of   steep steps   to   your   left.   These   lead   to   the   private   residence   of   the      Patriarch and   to   the   Patriarchate's   administrative   offices.   Normally,   entry   beyond this   point   is   barred   to   people   who   have   no   official   business   there.   Just across,   on   the   right   hand   side,   is   another   flight   of   steps   leading   to   the private   residences   of   the   priests   and   convent's   lay   population.   Unless accompanied   by   a   local   resident,   officially   invited   by   the   Patriarchate, visitors are requested not to  proceed beyond that point, The Printing Press             When   you   emerge   from   the   vestibule,   turn   left   and   follow   the passage-way   until   until   you   reach   the   Convent's   large   courtyard.   To   your immediate   right,   you   will   see   the   medical   clinic   established   by   the Jinishian    Memorial    Fund    to    cater    to    the    needs    of    the    Armenian community.   The   center   is   staffed   by   a   doctor   and   a   nurse.   Medications are dispensed either free or at a fraction of their cost.                A   few   paces   away   is   the   Patriarchate's   bookshop   where   visitors   can find   some   rare Armenian   publications   going   for   a   song.   The Armenians   of Jerusalem   were   the   first   to   establish   a   printing   press   in   the   city,   and   a copy   of   the   first   book   printed   here,   in   1833,   is   available   for   inspection. The    Armenian    Patriarch,    Yessai    Garabedian,    opened    the    city's    first photographic   studio   in   1866   and   became   its   first   official   photographer, bequeathing   a   rich   and   exciting   legacy   to   the   Armenians   of   Jerusalem, which they nurture to this day.             The   original   printing   press   building,   complete   with   a   huge   manual printing   machine   and   trays   of   lead   type,   is   still   there.   Part   of   the     building   has   been   converted   into   an   exhibit   of   rare   Armenian   books, including   the   first   book   (an   almanac)   ever   printed   in   Armenian      (in Venice,   in   1512),   and   the   first   printed   Armenian   bible   (the   work   was done in Amsterdam, in 1666).             Until   recently   type   was   still   sometimes   being   set   by   hand   at   the   old printing   press,   but   the   practice   has   now   given   way   to   innovation.   The Patriarchate   now   boasts   a   new   state-of-the-art   facility,   located   just outside    Convent,    which    is    equipped    to    handle    a    heavier    and    more fastidious   work   load,      including   color   printing.   This   new   institution   was the    first    within    the    Armenian    compound    to    introduce    the    concept computerization   on   a   dedicated   scale,   setting   the   scene   for   an   eventual local    area    network    (LAN)    designed    to    link    all    the    Patriarchate's institutions in one IBM-inspired environment. Youth clubs             Adjacent   to   the   old   printing   press,   the   Armenian   Youth   Union, "Hoyetchmen",   one   of   three   major   Armenian   organizations   in   the   city,     which   are   active   in   the   cultural,   sports   and   educational   fields,   has carved   out   a   niche   for   itself,   converting   an   abandoned   warehouse      into   a club and a stage-hall.             The   second   youth   club,   the   "Homentmen,"   lies   about   a   hundred   yards away,     in     an     enclave     that     abuts     the     official     residence     of     the       Patriarchate's   Grand   Sacristan   who   is   entrusted   with   the   safe   keeping   of the   Armenian   treasures   and   Holy   Places   of   Jerusalem.   The      club   was recently renovated and expanded.             The   third   club   is   the   Jerusalem   Armenian   Benevolent   Union   in   the Armenian   Quarter,   outside   the   Convent   walls.   Its   members   boast      an illustrious   lineage   of   Armenian   pilgrims   who   settled   in   the   city   over   a thousand    years    ago.    With    their    own    hands    they    laid    down    the      foundations   of   what   would   later   become   one   of   the   Old   City's   most picturesque quarters, inhabited exclusively by their descendants. Quarter of flowers             At   the   end   of   the   large   courtyard,   a   wide   but   low-ceilinged   arched entrance   leads   you   to   "Paghchatagh",   (the   Quarter   of   Flowers)         which had   originally   been   intended   as   the   residential   quarters   of   the Armenian priests,   but   was   evacuated   and   converted   to   accommodation   for   the thousands   of   Armenian   refugees   fleeing   Turkish   persecution   at   the   turn of   the   19th   Century.   The   refugees   dramatically   swelled   the   ranks   of   the native   Armenian   population   but   the   steady,   relentless   attrition   that   is the   bane   of   the   Christian   community   of   the   Holy   Land,   has   sharply reduced the numbers of Armenians and other Christians here.             Soon   after   his   ascent   to   the   throne   of   St   James,   Patriarch   Torkom Manoogian   set   about   renovating   Paghchatagh,   helping   revert   it   to   its original    designation.    The    grandiose    scheme    was    funded    mainly    by contributions from Armenians around the world. Library             When   you   step   out   of   Paghchatagh,   you   come   to   another   courtyard. To   your   right,   you   will   find   the   Gulbenkian   Library,   one   of   Jerusalem's most   important   landmarks.   Named   after   the   great Armenian   benefactor, Calouste   Gulbenkian,   who   was   also   known   in   oil   and   financial   circles   as "Mr   Five   Percent,"   the   building   houses   some   100,000   volumes,   half   in Armenian   and   the   rest   in   several   other   languages,   including   ancient Egyptian   hieroglyphics.   The   library   subscribes   to   almost   every   single Armenian-owned    publication    in    the    world,    making    it    an    invaluable repository    of    Armenian    culture    and    literature.    Almost    every    single Armenian-owned   newspaper   and   magazine   published   anywhere   in   the world is represented here. Museum             Next   to   the   library   stands   a   relatively   recent   innovation:   the   Edward and   Helen   Mardigian   Museum   of   Armenian   Art   and   Culture.   The   museum is   actually   situated   in   the   former   "Chamtagh,"   which   once   served   as   the Patriarchate's   theological   seminary.   Like   its   twin,      Paghchatagh,   this building   too   had   to   be   converted   into   residential   quarters   for   displaced Armenian   refugees. After   all   the   refugees   had   emigrated   and   found   new homes   in   America,   Canada   and   a   host   of   other   countries,   Chamtagh   fell into    disrepair.    Half    a    dozen    years    ago,    the   Armenian    philanthropist couple,   Edward   and   Helen   Mardigian,   came   to   its   rescue. Thanks   to   their generosity,   Chamtagh   was   soon   transformed   into   a   museum   and   has become   one   of   the   Armenian   Diaspora's   most   important   and   valuable cultural outposts.             Following   its   inauguration,   the   building   has   undergone   extensive refurbishing   at   the   hands   of   an   expert   seconded   to   the   Patriarchate   by UNESCO    (the    United    Nations    Educational,    Scientific    and    Cultural Organization).   The   building   houses   incomparable   historical   and   religious artifacts   some   of   which   were   brought   to   Jerusalem   by   a   regular   stream of   pilgrims.   Included   among   the   museum's   unique   displays   are   precious hand-woven    rugs,    a    collection    of    Armenian    coins    and    even    some banknotes   issued   by   the   short-lived   pre-Bolshevik   Armenian   Republic, scraps   of   evidence   of   the   presence   here   of   the   Xth   Legion,   huge   copper cauldrons,   colorful   tiles   from   the   world-famous   Kutayha   district,   an ancient    map    of    the    world    printed    in    Armenian,    and    a    replica    of Gutenberg's original printing press. Manuscripts             But   the   Patriarchate's   most   precious   treasures,   its   4,000   illustrated manuscripts,    are    not    among    the    items    on    exhibit    at    the    museum. However,   visitors   can   view   facsimile   pages,   in   full   color,   of   some   of   the most   beautiful   manuscripts,   which   have   been   moved   to   a   safer   location, at   the   church   of   St   Thoros,   close   to   the   Cathedral   of   St   James,   where for    nearly    all    his    adult    life,    the    late    Archbishop    Norayr    Bogharian lavished    special    care    and    attention    on    them.    His    most    enduring achievement   has   been   the   compilation   of   eleven   grand   catalogs   listing every   one   of   the   manuscripts,   with   occasional   excerpts   culled   from them,   and   a   full   physical   description,   as   well   as   a   brief   summary   of   the contents    of    each.    The    manuscripts    are    inaccessible    to    the    general public.   However,   bona   fide   researchers   who   meet   the   stringent   scholarly demands   of   the   Archbishop,   may   be   allowed   to   study   the   manuscripts, on the premises. High School             Walk   out   of   the   museum,   and   turn   right,   you   will   find   yourself   in   the playground    of    the    "Tarkmanchatz",    one    of    Jerusalem's    leading    co- educational   private   schools.   It   was   the   celebrated   thinker   and   writer, Patriarch   Yeghishe   Tourian,   who   was   instrumental   in   giving      the   city's Armenian   community   its   first   formal   educational   institution,   back   in 1929.   The   school   is   named   after   Sts   Sahag   Mesrob-Maschtotz,   the   two Holy   Translators   who   personally   single-handedly   crafted   the   Armenian alphabet.             The   curriculum   of   the   Tarkmanchatz,   the   first   one   among   the   city's dozen   private   schools   to   introduce   the   teaching   of   Hebrew   in   class   (it also   teaches   English,   French   and   Arabic   in   addition   to   Armenian),   is oriented     towards     both     the     London     University     inspired     General Certificate     of     Education     (GCE)     examination     and     the     Jordanian government sponsored school leaving certificate, the year 12 Tawjihi.          Almost   every   single   Armenian   who   lived   in   Jerusalem   would   have attended Tarkmanchatz. Bonfire             On   your   right-hand   side   sprawls   a   modest-sized   multi-purpose   foot- ball   field.   One   of   the   Jerusalemite Armenians'   most   cherished      traditions had   been   the   festival   of   the   annual   bonfire,   which   was   lit   in   the   centre of the field, on the feast of St Simeon the Elder.             Men   and   women,   of   all   ages   and   professions,   make   the   rounds   of   their neighbors   to   collect   firewood   for   the   bonfire.   Tree   branches,      broken furniture,   a   dilapidated   termite-infested   door,   discolored   signposts,   an odd   toilet-bowl   cover,   anything   that   will   feed   the   voracious   flames,   is dumped   into   the   field,   whose   boundaries   reach   to   within   a   few   feet   of one   of   the   city's   seven   portals,   Zion   Gate.   Celebrants   gather   around   the fire,   singing   songs   to   the   accompaniment   of   an   accordion.   Some   of   the more daring or foolhardy will leap across the flames.             The   practice   has   since   been   discarded,   to   the   dismay   of   all,   in   the wake of the prevailing  political situation. The Church of the Archangels             To   the   left   of   the   Tarkmanchatz   school,   going   down   a   flight   of   steps, the    visitor    will    arrive    at    the    Church    of    the    Holy    Archangels,    the traditional   site   of   the   house   of Annas. This   is   the   second   major Armenian church   in   Jerusalem,   but   is   built   on   a   less   grandiose   scale   than   the Cathedral   of   St   James.   Located   at   the   northern   edge   of   the   Armenian compound,   it   is   commonly   associated   with   weddings,   christenings   and funeral ceremonies.             During   the   recent   restoration   of   the   church,   workers   came   across ancient   Armenian   inscriptions   buried   behind   layers   of   plaster.   Some   of the   inscriptions   have   been   dated   as   far   back   as   the   13th   Century. An   old baptismal font was also uncovered behind one of the walls.             The   vault   of   the   church   is   supported   on   four   fat   columns.   Stripped   of their    plaster,    the    columns    revealed    row    upon    row    of    distinctive Armenian    stone-crosses    (Khachkars)    engraved    in    the    masonry    by Armenian   pilgrims.   The   church   boasts   another   unique   distinction:   it   has no   less   than   seven   altars,   one   of   them   marking   the   site   of   the   prison where   Christ   was   held.   But   the   most   striking   feature   of   the   church   is   the decorative   array   of   Kutayha   tiles   lining   the   walls.   Most   of   the   tiles   are painted   in   blue   and   carry   traditional   Armenian   floral   motifs.   But   a   very small   number   bear   full-color   illustrations   of   Biblical   scenes.   Experts consider   these   tiles,   and   the   ones   found   on   the   walls   of   the   Cathedral   of St James, masterpieces of Armenian ceramic art.             Once   you   leave   the   Church   of   the Archangels,   you   can   turn   right   and march   straight   into   the   Armenian   Quarter   of   the   Old   City,   which   lies outside   the   walled   perimeter   of   the   Convent,   or   walk   back   along   the path   you   came.   When   you   retrace   your   steps   and   reach   the   Edward   and Helen   Mardigian   Museum,   you   will   come   to   a   passageway   that   will   lead you   out   of   the   Convent,   to   the   main   road   leading   from   Jaffa   Gate   to Zion Gate and the Western Wall.             If   you   turn   right   here,   and   walk   a   hundred   yards,   you   come   full   circle to   the   huge   iron   gate   at   the   entrance   of   the   Convent   of   St   James.   To your   left   is   the   complex   of   the Theological   Seminary   of   the   Patriarchate, a    gift    of    the    American    Armenian    philanthropists    Alex    and    Mary Manougian.   Here,   Armenian   youths   from   all   over   the   world,   including the   USA   and Armenia,   come   to   study   for   the   priesthood.   When   ordained, after   several   years   of   intensive   study,   they   will   be   posted   to   various churches   in   the   Holy   Land   or   overseas,   and   help   infuse   new   blood   among the ranks of Armenian clergy. 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