rmenianshavebeenlivinginJerusalemforover2.000years,evenbefore ArmeniaproclaimedChristianityasitsstatereligionin3O1 AD,whenpilgrims begantrekkingtotheHolyLandonaspiritualjourneythatwouldrejuvenate theirfaithandreinforcetheircommitmenttothenewreligionofpeaceand love, preached by Jesus of Nazareth.TheArmeniansofJerusalemarethedirectdescendantsofthosepiouspilgrimswho bravedallsortsofdangers,enduredallkindsofhardships,intheirdeterminationtowalk in the footsteps of the Christ.Alargenumberofthe Armenianpilgrimschosetoremainhere.Jerusalemhadbecome theirnewhome. Theybuilthouses,churchesaridconvents,somenolongerstanding,like theoneattheMusraraQuarter,astone'sthrowfromthe15thCenturywallsoftheOld City,wherein1991archaeologistsuncoveredanincomparablemosaic,laiddownbyan unknown Armenian priest, Eustacius, in the 7th Century.The ArmenianConventofStJamesbecame,intime,thelargestsinglecompoundthat housedArmenianpilgrims,andrepresentedthedemographicandspiritualcoreofthe newly-established colony.AsyoutreadthecobblestonedalleysoftheConvent,youaretakenbackmorethana thousandyearsintothedistant,idyllicpastofourforefatherswholaiddownthe foundation stone of our present existence, for all generations to come.TheConventitselfoccupiesthesouthwesterncorneroftheOldCityandissituatedon thesiteoftheencampmentoftheXthLegionofRomewhichwastostormtheJewish Zealot stronghold at Masada.Togetherwithitsadjoiningoutcrop,theArmenianQuarter,whichskirtsthenorthern edgeoftheConvent,theArmeniancompoundishomeforabout2,000to3,000 Armenians.Another2,000arescatteredinvariouspartsoftheHolyLand,mainlyin Bethlehem,Haifa,Haifa,RamlehandRamallah,wherevisibleArmeniancommunities have evolved around the periphery of their ubiquitous nucleus, a church or convent.Atitspeak,the ArmenianpresenceinJerusalem,wheretheyhavebeenmostdensely concentrated,num-bered25,000.Butthehavocscausedbythediscom-bobulationsof halfacenturyofbloodshedandtheperennialpoliticalandeconomicinstabilityinthe region,havedecimatedthecolony.Mostofitsformermembersarenowensconcedinthe moreplacid,greenerpasturesofthefreeworld:theUSA,Canada, Australia,andpartsof Europe.YoucanevencomeacrossformerJerusalemitesinsuchfar-flungplacesas Calcutta or Johannesburg.Nevertheless,ArmenianshavecontinuedtobeadynamicpresenceinJerusalem.The numericalfactorisirrelevant.ArmeniansareinauniquesituationinJerusalem.Their Patriarchateenjoysasemi-diplomaticstatus.Itisoneofthethreemajorguardiansof theChristianHolyPlacesintheHolyLand.(TheothertwoaretheGreekOrthodox PatriarchateandtheFranciscanCustodia). AmongthesesitesaretheChurchoftheHoly SepulcherintheOldCity,thechurchoftheAscensionontheMountofOlives,theTomb of St Mary in the Valley of Gethsemane, and the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem.WhenyoufirstenterthroughthehugeirongateoftheConvent,youcomefacetoface withanancientmarblewaterfountain,whichwasplacedtherecenturiesagotoprovide acool,refreshingdrinkforpilgrims,incompliancewithanancientMiddleEastern custom. TheintroductionofrunningwatertothehomesofJerusalemresidentssometime during the British Mandate, made the fountain redundant.Behindandabovethefountain,amarbleplaqueembeddedinthewallandengraved inflowing Arabicscript,proclaimstheprivilegedstatusofthe ArmenianPatriarchate,and callsdownhorrendouscursesontheheadsofthosewhowouldviolatetheseprivileges, granted by the Mameluke Sultan Chaqmaq.Afewpacesaway,toyourleft,isanotherancientirongatethatleadstothevestibule oftheCathedralofStJames,thejeweloftheArmenianPatriarchate.Amagnificent edificethatranksasoneofthemostawe-inspiringinalloftheMiddleEast,the Cathedralisbedeckedwithcenturies-old"gantegh"s(oillamps),danglingfromthe soaringvault,andtallowcandiesdottingthethreealtars.Theoillampsarestillinuse today,lovinglytendedbyaltarboyswhoreplenishthemwithpureoliveoilatregular intervals.Thecandles,madebythePatriarchate'sowncandle-maker,tryvainlytodispel theelementaldarknessthatpervadesthechurchandthatimpartmysticalsignificanceto Armenian church rites. TheCathedral,whichhasbeenbuiltonthesiteofthetombsStJamestheLord's brotherandStJamestheLesser,hasinthepastalsoservedasabombshelter.During the1948 Arab-Israeliwar,theonlysanctuaryfromthedailybombardmentofthecitythat Armenianscouldfindwaswithinthesolid,reassuringconfinesoftheirCathedral,withits one-meterthickwalls.Duringoneparticularlymemorablenight,over1,000shellsofall kinds,includingthedreadedmortar,landedonandaroundtheCathedral-butnosingle casualtydidtheyclaim.Manybelieverswouldlaterswearthattheyhadseena mysteriousfigure,dressedinwhite,standingvigilontheroofoftheCathedral,andwith hishandswardingofftheshowerofmissiles.ItwasnoneotherthanStJames,believers assert.AttheentrancetotheCathedral,alargeplaquemarksthesiteofthegraveof Jerusalem's94thArmenianPatriarch,thelateArchbishopGureghIsraelian.Oneofthe city'smostpopularandcharismaticmenofthecloth,Israeliandiedin1949ofabroken heart,afterwitnessingtheintolerablesufferingsofhiswar-ravagedflock,caughtinthe crossfirebetweentheArabandJewisharmies.Morethanonce,hewouldcradleinhis ownarmstheshrapnel-shreddedbodyofanArmenianwhohadbeenthelatestcasualty in the unrelenting war.Anotherlonely,unpretentiousgravesitsforlornlyunderanarchwayafewpacesaway, attheotherendofthevestibule.ThisoneisthelastrestingplaceofJerusalem'sfirst Armenian Patriarch, Abraham, a contemporary of Saladin.AsyoucomeoutoftheCathedral,youwillnoticeaflightofsteepstepstoyourleft. TheseleadtotheprivateresidenceofthePatriarchandtothePatriarchate's administrativeoffices.Normally,entrybeyondthispointisbarredtopeoplewhohaveno officialbusinessthere.Justacross,ontherighthandside,isanotherflightofsteps leadingtotheprivateresidencesofthepriestsandconvent'slaypopulation.Unless accompaniedbyalocalresident,officiallyinvitedbythePatriarchate,visitorsare requested not to proceed beyond that point, Whenyouemergefromthevestibule,turnleftandfollowthepassage-wayuntiluntil youreachtheConvent'slargecourtyard.Toyourimmediateright,youwillseethe medicalclinicestablishedbytheJinishianMemorialFundtocatertotheneedsofthe Armeniancommunity.Thecenterisstaffedbyadoctorandanurse.Medicationsare dispensed either free or at a fraction of their cost.AfewpacesawayisthePatriarchate'sbookshopwherevisitorscanfindsomerare Armenianpublicationsgoingforasong.TheArmeniansofJerusalemwerethefirstto establishaprintingpressinthecity,andacopyofthefirstbookprintedhere,in1833,is availableforinspection.TheArmenianPatriarch,YessaiGarabedian,openedthecity's firstphotographicstudioin1866andbecameitsfirstofficialphotographer,bequeathing a rich and exciting legacy to the Armenians of Jerusalem, which they nurture to this day. Theoriginalprintingpressbuilding,completewithahugemanualprintingmachine andtraysofleadtype,isstillthere.Partofthebuildinghasbeenconvertedintoan exhibitofrareArmenianbooks,includingthefirstbook(analmanac)everprintedin Armenian(inVenice,in1512),andthefirstprintedArmenianbible(theworkwasdone in Amsterdam, in 1666). Untilrecentlytypewasstillsometimesbeingsetbyhandattheoldprintingpress,but thepracticehasnowgivenwaytoinnovation.ThePatriarchatenowboastsanewstate-of-the-artfacility,locatedjustoutsideConvent,whichisequippedtohandleaheavier andmorefastidiousworkload,includingcolorprinting. Thisnewinstitutionwasthefirst withinthe Armeniancompoundtointroducetheconceptcomputerizationonadedicated scale,settingthesceneforaneventuallocalareanetwork(LAN)designedtolinkallthe Patriarchate's institutions in one IBM-inspired environment.Adjacenttotheoldprintingpress,theArmenianYouthUnion,"Hoyetchmen",oneof threemajorArmenianorganizationsinthecity,whichareactiveinthecultural,sports andeducationalfields,hascarvedoutanicheforitself,convertinganabandoned warehouse into a club and a stage-hall. Thesecondyouthclub,the"Homentmen,"liesaboutahundredyardsaway,inan enclavethatabutstheofficialresidenceofthePatriarchate'sGrandSacristanwhois entrustedwiththesafekeepingofthe ArmeniantreasuresandHolyPlacesofJerusalem. The club was recently renovated and expanded. ThethirdclubistheJerusalemArmenianBenevolentUnionintheArmenianQuarter, outsidetheConventwalls.Itsmembersboastanillustriouslineageof Armenianpilgrims whosettledinthecityoverathousandyearsago.Withtheirownhandstheylaiddown thefoundationsofwhatwouldlaterbecomeoneoftheOldCity'smostpicturesque quarters, inhabited exclusively by their descendants. Attheendofthelargecourtyard,awidebutlow-ceilingedarchedentranceleadsyou to"Paghchatagh",(theQuarterofFlowers)whichhadoriginallybeenintendedasthe residentialquartersoftheArmenianpriests,butwasevacuatedandconvertedto accommodationforthethousandsofArmenianrefugeesfleeingTurkishpersecutionat theturnofthe19thCentury.Therefugeesdramaticallyswelledtheranksofthenative Armenianpopulationbutthesteady,relentlessattritionthatisthebaneoftheChristian communityoftheHolyLand,hassharplyreducedthenumbersofArmeniansandother Christians here. SoonafterhisascenttothethroneofStJames,PatriarchTorkomManoogiansetabout renovatingPaghchatagh,helpingrevertittoitsoriginaldesignation.Thegrandiose scheme was funded mainly by contributions from Armenians around the world.WhenyoustepoutofPaghchatagh,youcometoanothercourtyard.Toyourright,you willfindtheGulbenkianLibrary,oneofJerusalem'smostimportantlandmarks.Named afterthegreat Armenianbenefactor,CalousteGulbenkian,whowasalsoknowninoiland financialcirclesas"MrFivePercent,"thebuildinghousessome100,000volumes,halfin Armenianandtherestinseveralotherlanguages,includingancientEgyptian hieroglyphics.ThelibrarysubscribestoalmosteverysingleArmenian-ownedpublication intheworld,makingitaninvaluablerepositoryofArmeniancultureandliterature. Almosteverysingle Armenian-ownednewspaperandmagazinepublishedanywhereinthe world is represented here. Nexttothelibrarystandsarelativelyrecentinnovation:theEdwardandHelen MardigianMuseumofArmenianArtandCulture.Themuseumisactuallysituatedinthe former"Chamtagh,"whichonceservedasthePatriarchate'stheologicalseminary.Likeits twin,Paghchatagh,thisbuildingtoohadtobeconvertedintoresidentialquartersfor displaced Armenianrefugees. Afteralltherefugeeshademigratedandfoundnewhomes inAmerica,Canadaandahostofothercountries,Chamtaghfellintodisrepair.Halfa dozenyearsago,the Armenianphilanthropistcouple,EdwardandHelenMardigian,came toitsrescue.Thankstotheirgenerosity,Chamtaghwassoontransformedintoamuseum andhasbecomeoneoftheArmenianDiaspora'smostimportantandvaluablecultural outposts.Followingitsinauguration,thebuildinghasundergoneextensiverefurbishingatthe handsofanexpertsecondedtothePatriarchatebyUNESCO(theUnitedNations Educational,ScientificandCulturalOrganization).Thebuildinghousesincomparable historicalandreligiousartifactssomeofwhichwerebroughttoJerusalembyaregular streamofpilgrims.Includedamongthemuseum'suniquedisplaysareprecioushand-wovenrugs,acollectionof Armeniancoinsandevensomebanknotesissuedbytheshort-livedpre-BolshevikArmenianRepublic,scrapsofevidenceofthepresencehereofthe XthLegion,hugecoppercauldrons,colorfultilesfromtheworld-famousKutayhadistrict, anancientmapoftheworldprintedinArmenian,andareplicaofGutenberg'soriginal printing press.ButthePatriarchate'smostprecioustreasures,its4,000illustratedmanuscripts,are notamongtheitemsonexhibitatthemuseum.However,visitorscanviewfacsimile pages,infullcolor,ofsomeofthemostbeautifulmanuscripts,whichhavebeenmoved toasaferlocation,atthechurchofStThoros,closetotheCathedralofStJames,where fornearlyallhisadultlife,thelateArchbishopNorayrBogharianlavishedspecialcare andattentiononthem.Hismostenduringachievementhasbeenthecompilationof elevengrandcatalogslistingeveryoneofthemanuscripts,withoccasionalexcerpts culledfromthem,andafullphysicaldescription,aswellasabriefsummaryofthe contentsofeach.Themanuscriptsareinaccessibletothegeneralpublic.However,bona fideresearcherswhomeetthestringentscholarlydemandsoftheArchbishop,maybe allowed to study the manuscripts, on the premises. Walkoutofthemuseum,andturnright,youwillfindyourselfintheplaygroundofthe "Tarkmanchatz",oneofJerusalem'sleadingco-educationalprivateschools.Itwasthe celebratedthinkerandwriter,PatriarchYeghisheTourian,whowasinstrumentalingivingthecity'sArmeniancommunityitsfirstformaleducationalinstitution,backin1929.The schoolisnamedafterStsSahagMesrob-Maschtotz,thetwoHolyTranslatorswho personally single-handedly crafted the Armenian alphabet. ThecurriculumoftheTarkmanchatz,thefirstoneamongthecity'sdozenprivate schoolstointroducetheteachingofHebrewinclass(italsoteachesEnglish,Frenchand ArabicinadditiontoArmenian),isorientedtowardsboththeLondonUniversityinspired GeneralCertificateofEducation(GCE)examinationandtheJordaniangovernment sponsored school leaving certificate, the year 12 Tawjihi. AlmosteverysingleArmenianwholivedinJerusalemwouldhaveattended Tarkmanchatz. Onyourright-handsidesprawlsamodest-sizedmulti-purposefoot-ballfield.Oneof theJerusalemiteArmenians'mostcherishedtraditionshadbeenthefestivalofthe annualbonfire,whichwaslitinthecentreofthefield,onthefeastofStSimeonthe Elder. Menandwomen,ofallagesandprofessions,maketheroundsoftheirneighborsto collectfirewoodforthebonfire.Treebranches,brokenfurniture,adilapidatedtermite-infesteddoor,discoloredsignposts,anoddtoilet-bowlcover,anythingthatwillfeedthe voraciousflames,isdumpedintothefield,whoseboundariesreachtowithinafewfeet ofoneofthecity'ssevenportals,ZionGate.Celebrantsgatheraroundthefire,singing songstotheaccompanimentofanaccordion.Someofthemoredaringorfoolhardywill leap across the flames. Thepracticehassincebeendiscarded,tothedismayofall,inthewakeofthe prevailing political situation.TotheleftoftheTarkmanchatzschool,goingdownaflightofsteps,thevisitorwill arriveattheChurchoftheHolyArchangels,thetraditionalsiteofthehouseofAnnas. ThisisthesecondmajorArmenianchurchinJerusalem,butisbuiltonalessgrandiose scalethantheCathedralofStJames.LocatedatthenorthernedgeoftheArmenian compound,itiscommonlyassociatedwithweddings,christeningsandfuneral ceremonies. Duringtherecentrestorationofthechurch,workerscameacrossancientArmenian inscriptionsburiedbehindlayersofplaster.Someoftheinscriptionshavebeendatedas farbackasthe13thCentury. Anoldbaptismalfontwasalsouncoveredbehindoneofthe walls. Thevaultofthechurchissupportedonfourfatcolumns.Strippedoftheirplaster,the columnsrevealedrowuponrowofdistinctiveArmenianstone-crosses(Khachkars) engravedinthemasonrybyArmenianpilgrims.Thechurchboastsanotherunique distinction:ithasnolessthansevenaltars,oneofthemmarkingthesiteoftheprison whereChristwasheld.Butthemoststrikingfeatureofthechurchisthedecorativearray ofKutayhatilesliningthewalls.Mostofthetilesarepaintedinblueandcarry traditional Armenianfloralmotifs.Butaverysmallnumberbearfull-colorillustrationsof Biblicalscenes.Expertsconsiderthesetiles,andtheonesfoundonthewallsofthe Cathedral of St James, masterpieces of Armenian ceramic art. OnceyouleavetheChurchoftheArchangels,youcanturnrightandmarchstraight intothe ArmenianQuarteroftheOldCity,whichliesoutsidethewalledperimeterofthe Convent,orwalkbackalongthepathyoucame.Whenyouretraceyourstepsandreach theEdwardandHelenMardigianMuseum,youwillcometoapassagewaythatwilllead yououtoftheConvent,tothemainroadleadingfromJaffaGatetoZionGateandthe Western Wall.Ifyouturnrighthere,andwalkahundredyards,youcomefullcircletothehugeiron gateattheentranceoftheConventofStJames.Toyourleftisthecomplexofthe TheologicalSeminaryofthePatriarchate,agiftofthe American Armenianphilanthropists AlexandMaryManougian.Here,Armenianyouthsfromallovertheworld,includingthe USAandArmenia,cometostudyforthepriesthood.Whenordained,afterseveralyears ofintensivestudy,theywillbepostedtovariouschurchesintheHolyLandoroverseas, and help infuse new blood among the ranks of Armenian clergy.